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Pitmaster Ren Garcia set a rib plate in the window of Micklethwait Craft Meats, in Austin. I had just eaten the smoked prime rib special, but the juices weeping from those behemoth spareribs were like a siren song. “How much for one rib?” I asked, without intending an I’m Gonna Git You Sucka joke. He handed me a small end rib right off the block, and I polished it off before I could walk to the trash can to deposit the bone. It wasn’t a sauced-up rib, which has become the norm in Texas. Micklethwait‘s rib tasted like salt, pepper, smoke, and—as is less common with today’s trendy sweet ribs—pork.“There are a lot of lies in barbecue,” Tom Micklethwait told me before I got too…

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