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I ordered a tray of meat at Big Boy’s Bar-B-Que in Sweetwater, 40 miles west of Abilene, and didn’t ask for brisket. I’d been to the joint many times before, and wanted to enjoy the cuts I thought were best suited to owner and pitmaster Gaylan Marth’s direct-heat method of cooking. Thinner meats like pork ribs, pork steaks, and chicken are what I crave from any joint that cooks over wood coals. Marth filled my order, then slapped on a couple slices of brisket anyway. After I posted a photo to Instagram, comments about the shaggy-looking brisket ensued. “The brisket that most people want needs to look like the one Aaron Franklin throws down on his table,” Marth said, explaining customer expectations these days. “It’s…
The post Forget Pretty Brisket. This West Texas Joint Is Sticking to Its Direct-Heat Method. appeared first on Texas Monthly.
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