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In the Texas Monthly Recommends series, Texas Monthly writers, editors, photographers, and producers offer up their favorite recent culture discoveries from the great state of Texas. It’s a thrilling time for Dallas Mexican food. The renewed interest in heritage techniques, presentation, and recipes is transforming the city’s reputation from that of a Tex-Mex stalwart to that of one of the great Mexican food cities of the U.S. Among the vanguard is Olivia Lopez, who might be single-handedly changing the Dallas Mexican food scene. Lopez’s reputation—and fan base—is built on methodical respect and treatment of both corn and history. The chef’s company, Molino Olōyō, nixtamalizes heirloom Mexican corn for tortillas and other masa preparations. Some of that masa is used by local restaurants, barbecue joints, and taquerias. Her tortillas are communion…
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