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The wood-fired eighteen-ounce Akaushi New York strip steak, with sautéed mushrooms and a broccolini side, at Black Cur Steak.There’s a first time for everything, and on a Saturday night this past winter, I had dinner at a steakhouse named for a dog. To be clear, it wasn’t just any steakhouse or just any dog. Black Cur Steak is the fanciest restaurant in the small west-central Texas town of Coleman, and its honoree, the late Rio, was a proud member of the breed of hunting and herding dogs known as black mouth curs, who have distinctive dark muzzles and light brown coats. He is fondly remembered by all who knew him: a very large stylized black-and-white photograph of him hangs proudly over the bar. You can’t miss it.Rio didn’t live or work at the steakhouse. He was the designated greeter at Rancho Loma, a…

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