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Looking south across Green sotol towards the Rio Grande in the Chisos mountains, Big Bend National Park, TexasIn late January, holding a sandwich board and a bullhorn, Sandro Canovas stationed himself outside the Marfa Spirit Co. “Sotol es mexicano! Boycott these culture vultures! Don’t support the ladrones,” he shouted.Some passersby chatted with Canovas before getting a drink at the distillery; others voiced support for one side or the other. Over the course of the weekend, residents and visitors politely accepted flyers from Canovas. Most of the glossy one-sheets ended up in a nearby trash bin.Two months later, Canovas was in the Mexico City chambers of the Mexican Senate declaring that sotol, a traditional Mexican spirit, should not be distilled in Marfa or anywhere in the U.S.But it has been—and Texas has led the way, with companies like the Marfa Spirit Co. and…

The post Who’s Allowed to Make Sotol? appeared first on Texas Monthly.

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