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Looking south across Green sotol towards the Rio Grande in the Chisos mountains, Big Bend National Park, TexasIn late January, holding a sandwich board and a bullhorn, Sandro Canovas stationed himself outside the Marfa Spirit Co. “Sotol es mexicano! Boycott these culture vultures! Don’t support the ladrones,” he shouted.Some passersby chatted with Canovas before getting a drink at the distillery; others voiced support for one side or the other. Over the course of the weekend, residents and visitors politely accepted flyers from Canovas. Most of the glossy one-sheets ended up in a nearby trash bin.Two months later, Canovas was in the Mexico City chambers of the Mexican Senate declaring that sotol, a traditional Mexican spirit, should not be distilled in Marfa or anywhere in the U.S.But it has been—and Texas has led the way, with companies like the Marfa Spirit Co. and…

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