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Instead of chips and salsa to start the meal at Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission, customers are offered whole tostadas of blue and yellow corn. The air around the table is blasted with the aroma, the kind of scent that can only be conjured from nixtamalization. Accompanying the tostadas is a tray of six sauces. The silky salsa verde scorches the throat; the salsa macha prickles like needles on the inside of the mouth; the orange-colored salsa de chile de árbol is fruity and slightly sweet at first, but is followed by a wallop of spice; and the crema adds cooling tartness. This appetizer isn’t merely to hold you over until your main course arrives—it’s a culinary adventure unto itself. From there, the menu is…
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