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As the owner and pitmaster of Harlem Road Texas BBQ in Richmond, Ara Malekian is obviously well-known for his barbecue. But he’s gaining notoriety for his signature Armenian coffee too. “At the barbecue events, I do end up spending more time making coffee than smoking meat,” Malekian told me. At last month’s Houston Barbecue Festival, I enjoyed a small cup of the dark, strong brew straight from the copper pot, or jazzve, Malekian travels with. It was a much-needed caffeine boost of a kind that used to be customary for any public barbecue in Texas.Community barbecues were particularly popular from the late nineteenth century to the mid-twentieth century. Their menus varied widely when it came to meats and side dishes, based on what the surrounding…

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