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Often when I visit an imposing, stylishly designed new restaurant, I find myself wondering as much about its cost as its cuisine. That was certainly the case when I arrived at the Mexican, which is located a few miles northwest of downtown Dallas in a fabulous building the size of three basketball courts. When my friends joined me, the hostess led us to a table in the main dining area, pointing out as we walked such features as the three private dining rooms (the largest accommodating fifty people), decorated with commissioned artwork. She gestured toward the well-ventilatedcigar room, then mentioned that if we had an interest in agave spirits, the tequila sommelier could be alerted (the restaurant’s four hundred selections range from amber-hued, barrel-aged añejos…

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