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In my opinion, salsas are defined by the chile that lends them heat. Jalapeños are nice and mild; serranos give the perfect amount of kick; and dried chiles or chipotle en adobo bring a roasty earthiness.So what about habaneros? They—rightfully—have a reputation for sky-high heat. But if you only consider their Scoville units, you’re missing what these little orange chiles have to offer. You might be surprised to hear habaneros also have a lovely sweetness to them, somewhat reminiscent of a carrot, and an amazing floral scent (just don’t take too big a whiff). These flavors come out nicely in fermented hot sauces, but you can also play them up by emphasizing their natural sweetness. Thus, fruit is a common pairing for habaneros, and this combination is…

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