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Jong Kim doesn’t like to stop working. He’s either reorganizing the beverage fridges or running to and from the back with boxes of products to restock. The thin, seventy-year-old man wearing a loose cap, a striped polo tucked into his pants, and sensible black sneakers takes a break to wipe his brow with his forearm and drink water. There’s always something to do, and Kim is going to do it. This was the scene during my visit to Chas Market and Kitchen, an 88-year-old business housed in a concrete-block building. It’s easily missed when seen from Interstate 35 in San Antonio’s Government Hill neighborhood. Even a white sign bearing the words “Taco. Hamburger. Fish Plate,” as fetching as it is in its stark design, is hard…
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