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A yellow door in East Austin leads into the minuscule space of Comadre Panadería. A glimpse through the Dutch door on the right shows staff in the kitchen sliding pastry trays into tall racks. To the left is the small glass case that displays the day’s pan dulce. There might be crumbly, powdered sugar–dusted polvorones (what some call Mexican wedding cookies), made with pecans and mesquite flour; tacos de piña, rectangular puff pastries with pineapple jam; mole croissants; or candy corn conchas. The spongy pastries—a fall specialty—convert even the most stalwart candy corn hater. I watched it happen as a friend and I were eating them off the hood of his car: one moment, he was spouting hateful words; the next, he didn’t want to…
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